Recent advancements in understanding the terroir effect on aromas in grapes and wines

Cornelis van Leeuwen (1, 2) , Jean-Christophe Barbe (3) , Philippe Darriet (3) , Olivier Geffroy (4) , Eric Gomès (2) , Sabine Guillaumie (2) , Pierre Helwi (5) , Justine Laboyrie (3) , Georgia Lytra (3) , Nicolas Le Menn (3) , Stéphanie Marchand (3) , Magali Picard (6) , Alexandre Pons (3) , Armin Schüttler (7) , Cécile Thibon (3)

1 ISVV - Institut des Sciences de la Vigne et du Vin [Villenave d'Ornon]
2 UMR EGFV - Ecophysiologie et Génomique Fonctionnelle de la Vigne
3 OENO - Unité de Recherche Oenologie [Villenave d'Ornon]
4 INP - PURPAN - Ecole d'Ingénieurs de Purpan
5 Texas A&M University System
6 ISM - Institut des Sciences Moléculaires
7 Hochschule Geisenheim University

Terroir is about the link between wine and its origin. It has long been understood by sensory evaluation that the taste of wine from a given variety can be related to its origins. Specific organoleptic characteristics of wine are influenced by environmental factors such as soil and climate. By deconstructing the effect of measurable soil and climate parameters on grape and wine aroma compounds, the terroir effect on wine typicity can be better understood. Climate influences on vine development and grape ripening are mainly associated with temperature, radiation and rainfall, while soil influences are primarily associated with water availability and nitrogen supply. Significant advances have been made over recent years in understanding wine aromas and their molecular basis and influences of climate and soil on a wide range of molecules responsible for wine aroma expression. This article aims to review these recent research advances to obtain a more comprehensive understanding of how terroir influences wine typicity. The effect of terroir on wine quality and typicity is sometimes considered intangible and difficult to explain on a scientific basis. By combining agronomic, analytical and sensory approaches, however, this review shows that the terroir effect is mediated by measurable factors that can easily be monitored in the vineyard. Assessment of the results compiled by this review allows the suggestion that terroir expression at specific sites might be maximized by choosing appropriate plant material in relation to soil and climate, by acting on manageable parameters like vine water and nitrogen status, or by implementing canopy management to modify microclimate in the bunch zone.

Mots clés: Terroir; soil; climate; temperature; radiation; water balance; nitrogen; vine; wine; aroma; typicity

Domaines: Sciences de l'environnement

Cornelis van Leeuwen, Jean-Christophe Barbe, Philippe Darriet, Olivier Geffroy, Eric Gomès, et al.. Recent advancements in understanding the terroir effect on aromas in grapes and wines. OENO One, 2020, 54 (4), pp.985-1006. ⟨10.20870/oeno-one.2020.54.4.3983⟩. ⟨hal-03288129⟩